Less cupcake more couture: suit styling tips for White House visit

Whether it's another bout of shock or a moment of feeling the presidency draining him, President Cyril Ramaphosa's visit to the US this week marks a pivotal time in local and international politics. Whether it is differing views on the Gaza war or US President Donald Trump's sudden bouts of continental amnesia, the visit could either make or break relations between the two countries.

One of the issues might be brought on by Ramaphosa's drip check, or the lack thereof, as Trump's cabinet has not been shy to express their opinions on respectable codes of dress in the White House.

With Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky's flight out of Uncle Sam's backyard marred by questions about his demeanour and attire, Ramaphosa might want to avoid falling into a Trump trap where he would become America's next top shaggy dog story. 

While Ramaphosa rarely flies the flag for local tailors, here are a few fashion-forward tips to help him and any other big-boned suit lovers rock a formal look, specially facing Trump and his administration, who are infamous for their tawdry togs.

COLOUR ME CUPCAKE

Colour plays an important role when it comes to anything you wear, specially for curvier fashion lovers. When it comes to Ramaphosa's favourite shades in formal attire, it is often dark hues, including classic navy blues, charcoal greys and black.

To avoid widening your shape, stay away from windowpane or heavily printed fabrics and rather opt for pinstripes that create narrow shapes and the illusion of height. While many might affectionately know Ramaphosa as “Cupcake”, he's probably better off leaving pastel or candy coated colours for another event.

CHEST SIZE

One of the most common mistakes made with suit jackets is the chest size. To avoid buckling and distressed button holes, be conscious of your chest size for rushed purchases or last-minute wardrobe emergencies. Suits are not meant to stifle you when you wear them. They are always supposed to be comfortable.

LONG PANT RISES

While the bust seems the biggest concern, a lot of concern can be made while trying the best pants. Shop-bought trousers will often accommodate a general size measurement, but they might not always fit the way intended. A pant rise is measured from the middle of the crotch seam (underneath the pants zipper) to the waist. Getting the right rise size helps determine how comfortable pants sit on your body.

There are a lot of determining factors to what makes the perfect rise but a low rise should be avoided as it is popular with styles from the 1970s that do not compliment your natural waistline. For formal wear, a high rise will probably work best for Ramaphosa as it accommodates curvier (and tall) body types.

SUSPENDERS VS BELTS

One rule always reigns supreme when it comes to pant accessories. You either wear a belt or a suspender. That's unless you are a maximalist rule breaker who doesn't mind turning a few heads. Sure, sometimes you might get pants that need a little help staying secure, and while you might want to reach for a belt that adds a chic touch to any look, suspenders are an unsung hero of the fashion world. Belts can create unflattering lines, creases and bulges in unexpected places while suspenders create a cleaner finish.

TIED UP

A bow tie is certainly a no-no for a formal meeting and Ramaphosa has always been careful to only wear one with a tux at highbrow dinners and ceremonies. The best tie bet here is a firm colour that will convey the stance or agreeable approach he takes when meeting Trump. A striped red option might be a winner as a colour tied to Trump's Republicans and synonymous with leadership for formal wear. Purple is a colour often associated with regality and can be associated with confidence. It would be best to avoid shades of blue or earth tones. The former might be over analysed by anti-Democrat arty fans of Trump while earthy tones might be too passive when styled with his preferred dark suit tones.