Cruising
Magic and madness: A cruise to Mozambique on the MSC Musica
Bodies, buffet lines and beaches are all part of the fun on a jam-packed sailing from Durban to Portuguese and Inhaca islands in Mozambique
Walking into the buffet area on the MSC Musica shattered every illusion I had about cruising. In my mind, a cruise was synonymous with exclusivity — private yacht parties in Dubai, guests sipping champagne in designer kaftans, a level of luxury that felt almost untouchable. But the reality? Think more along the lines of the general access section at a stadium concert. Packed. Chaotic. Thrilling in its own way.
With more than 2,900 passengers on board, the ship was a floating festival of families, girls’ trips, boys’ weekends, and stokvel groups turning up as if they had been saving for this moment all year. Even with my priority boarding, the special treatment ended the moment I stepped onto the ship. From then on, I was just another cruiser navigating the human maze.
Everywhere I turned, there was something happening. The buffet on Deck 13 was a battlefield — kids running between tables, plates stacked high with food, and queues snaking through the seating areas. Finding a quiet moment was nearly impossible. I had hoped to find reprieve in the pool, but every one of them was a human soup pot — bodies bobbing in and out as if we were in a public water park.
And yet, there was magic in the madness. I met a young couple at the bar and, within minutes, we were doing shots together as if we had been friends for years. It’s surprisingly easy to make cruise friends. The unspoken rule? What happens on the ship stays on the ship — unless, of course, you overindulge and lose your phone. One cruiser did just that, but in a rare moment of humanity, a stranger found it and returned it to him.
Diversity was the unexpected highlight of the experience. An older Afrikaans family sitting beside a black couple, Indian friends breaking bread with their coloured neighbours — it felt as if a glimpse into Mandela’s dream. A rare and beautiful moment where South Africans, often divided by land, came together in the middle of the ocean.
But let’s be honest — 2,900 people is excessive. The ship, as grand as it is, never lets you forget just how many bodies are crammed onto it. Whether it was trying to find an open deck chair, securing a spot at the buffet, or simply attempting to walk through the ship without bumping into someone, the sheer volume of people was overwhelming.
I found solace at the Kaito Sushi Bar, a quiet retreat from the bustling decks. The only other patron was a man in a captain’s uniform — not the ship’s captain, but still carrying the title. Chef Ali’s eyes lit up as he prepared a three-course sushi meal, each piece a delicate work of art. Trained under the renowned Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa, Ali’s creations were a revelation. The sushi? Orgasmic. The matcha ice cream? A perfect finale.
The two fine-dining restaurants, both Italian, created a lively atmosphere with music and napkin-waving traditions. The buffet, always bustling, became the go-to late-night stop after a few cocktails. But for an unforgettable meal, Chef Ali’s sushi experience was worth every cent of the $34 (about R630).
The cruise also delivered world-class entertainment. From nights at the casino to Broadway-style theatre shows and high-energy dance classes, there was never a dull moment. Karaoke quickly became a favourite, with guests belting out tunes with impressive enthusiasm. The themed parties were a highlight — especially the Tropical Party and the Snow Party.
Dancing was the heartbeat of the ship. Choreographed group dances had everyone jiggling in unison, from young travellers to Mama Gloria, a spirited cruiser who pulled me into the moment. She and her stokvel sisters had saved for months for this trip, planning every outfit to match their daily colour themes. At times, it felt as if I was always part of a flash mob — wherever I turned, there was another synchronised routine, another moment of spontaneous joy. Late nights at the disco blurred the line between the ship’s gentle sway and dance-floor magic.
As I watched the sun set over the endless ocean, cocktail in hand, I realised this cruise wasn’t just about the destination — it was about the memories, the people, and the joy of the journey.
The next day the festivities continued. We were set to spend the day on Portuguese Island, Mozambique. Disembarking, we boarded a smaller boat — the Tender — which ferried us across turquoise waters to the island. But the journey didn’t end there. From the shore, we climbed into a speedboat that whisked us to the nearby village for a unique lunch experience.
Stepping onto the beach, I was met with a searing reminder that paradise comes with its own set of challenges. The sand, white and inviting, was blistering underfoot, forcing an awkward sprint towards shade. Our destination, Restaurante Tropical, was a short walk from the shore, but every step felt as if a barefoot pilgrimage across fire.
Curiosity led me beyond the tourist path. I wandered through the village, past weathered homes and simple kiosks selling crocheted clothes, woven baskets, and fresh coconuts. The air was thick with something indescribable — rustic charm, yes, but also a quiet sadness. Young men eagerly helped us off the boats, their smiles wide and welcoming, but their hands quickly extended for tips. Here, poverty isn’t hidden behind resort walls; it lingers in the dusty streets, in the desperate hustle for a few meticais, in the eyes of those who have learnt that visitors bring opportunities, however fleeting.
And yet, life here moves with an unshakeable rhythm. Fishermen return from the sea, their smiles as broad as their catch. One man proudly displayed a fish nearly 1m long, his prize for the day. Another sat gutting his haul, working with the practised ease of someone who’s done this a thousand times before. Chickens roamed freely, weaving between makeshift stalls where locals sold roasted cashews and fresh seafood.
The natural choice was to embrace the local flavours. A Tipo Tinto — the island’s signature mix of raspberry soda and dark rum — arrived in my hand, sweet and potent, the perfect pairing for the laid-back atmosphere. Here, time slowed. Locals sat under trees, sipping their 2M beers, exchanging stories and watching the tide roll in.
Inhaca Island, just beyond Portuguese Island, holds a quiet magic. It’s not polished or manicured but its authenticity is its allure. There’s beauty in the simplicity, in the resilience of its people, in the warmth of a smile exchanged over a cold drink. A place where life, despite its hardships, still finds a way to be celebrated.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, we boarded the Tender back to the MSC Musica, watching the island shrink into the distance — a fleeting paradise left behind as the ship set sail, carrying us back to Durban with sun-kissed skin, sandy feet, and memories that would linger long after the journey had ended.
A cruise is what you make of it. It’s not the private yacht fantasy, but it’s an experience. One filled with too many people, too much food, and just the right amount of adventure. And maybe, just maybe, that’s exactly the point.
PLAN YOUR TRIP
The upcoming season opening in November 2025 will feature the MSC Opera. Itineraries available sailing from both Cape Town and Durban and exploring stunning destinations across the Indian and South Atlantic Oceans. Cruises from R5,326 per person. Find out more here.
• Wagner was a guest of MSC.