Celeb travels

Writer Justin Fox on the sexy Stans, 'obscene' Alps & his 'secret' Cape Town

The Sunday Times Literary Award nominee shares some of his favourite destinations and travel memories

27 October 2024 - 00:00 By Elizabeth Sleith
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Travel writer Justin Fox is nominated for a Sunday Times Literary Award in the non-fiction category.
Travel writer Justin Fox is nominated for a Sunday Times Literary Award in the non-fiction category.
Image: Supplied

I started my career as an English academic teaching at UCT, but soon got itchy feet, wanting to travel the world. So I took a job as a junior photojournalist at a travel magazine, which set me on the path of travel writing. Twenty-six years later, I’m still at it, still travelling, still got those terribly itchy feet.

Most of my holidays as a child were spent in a 200-year-old farmhouse on Red Hill above Simon’s Town. It has a big garden with stone terraces: vines, fig, lemon and olive trees. It looks and feels like the Mediterranean, with gorgeous views over False Bay. I spent my days on Water's Edge Beach, windsurfing, kayaking, snorkelling and dinghy sailing. It was, I suppose, a version of paradise.

When I was six years old, my parents took me to Europe for the first time. The trip culminated in Greece, where we spent quite some time on the islands of Patmos and Santorini. The journey left such a powerful impression on me that I think my subsequent career as a travel writer has its seeds in that holiday. And it gave me a passion for islands and boats.

Horses on a steppe at the foot of the Tian Shan mountains, Kazakhstan.
Horses on a steppe at the foot of the Tian Shan mountains, Kazakhstan.
Image: mathiasberlin / 123rf.com
A view of the mausoleums and domes of the historical cemetery of Shahi Zinda in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
A view of the mausoleums and domes of the historical cemetery of Shahi Zinda in Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
Image: mehmetozb / 123rf.com
Blue and white architecture on Santorini island, Greece.
Blue and white architecture on Santorini island, Greece.
Image: tanyalovus / 123rf.com

My trip in a Land Rover through the Stan countries of central Asia must be one of my most unusual. I flew to Ashgabat, capital of Turkmenistan, which is one of the weirdest cities on Earth. It has buildings of white marble with gold statues and fountains everywhere. We followed the old Silk Route to the fabled cities of Samarkand, Khiva and Bukhara in Uzbekistan, and then into the beautiful snow-capped mountains of Kyrgyzstan, staying with families living in remote highland yurts.

My home is Cape Town. If I were hosting a tourist there, I would suggest a day in the wild, spectacular deep south. First, I’d take them snorkelling in a kelp forest at Windmill Beach or Smitswinkel Bay, followed by a slow drive through Cape Point National Park. I’d then suggest doing the lovely Shipwreck Trail along the beach, starting at Olifantsbos on the Atlantic side, and then a swim at either Buffels Bay or magical Venus Pool on the False Bay side.

Paris is my favourite international city. It's a city of grandeur and culture, of magnificent food, art and architecture. On a perfect day there, after waking, I’d amble down to the local boulangerie for a freshly baked croissant, then it’s off to one of the museums or galleries. My favourite is the Musée d’Orsay for its superb Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art, especially Cezanne and Gaugin. In the afternoon, perhaps a boat ride on the Seine or a wander through a Parisian garden (Jardin du Luxembourg is a favourite). In the evening, I’d climb the steps to Montmartre for stunning sunset views of the city and supper in a little bistro on Place du Tertre.

The Place du Tertre in Montmartre, Paris.
The Place du Tertre in Montmartre, Paris.
Image: dennisvdwater / 123rf.com

My best travel experience was on a winter press trip hosted by Swiss Tourism. We ended up at Iglu-Dorf ice hotel high on the slopes above Zermatt. We donned bathing costumes and walked out into the snow to the most spectacular jacuzzi. We wallowed in the bubbling tub drinking pink Champagne and watching the slopes of Mont Blanc turn equally pink as the sun set over the Alps. Obscenely decadent? You betcha.

Friendliest locals? A holiday on the “Lake of Stars” is made even more memorable by the kind, gentle and generous locals. It’s not for nothing that Malawi is called “the warm heart of Africa”.

Being a travel writer, I mostly travel solo. I sometimes take a friend or family member along if it’s a short, fun, journalistic trip, but if I’m researching for a book, it’s better to travel solo. Sitting alone at night beside a braai fire with a notebook and a glass or two of red wine can produce good material. The longest solo trip I’ve done is a two-month journey in a 4x4 around the edge of South Africa, tracing our country’s outline. The result was The Marginal Safari, a meditation on South Africa and my place in it.

• Fox is shortlisted for a Sunday Times Literary Award for his travelogue, Place: South African Literary Journeys (Umuzi). The winners will be announced on October 31. 


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